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Lip Care Guide: Keeping Your Lips Healthy and Hydrated

This guide provides shopping guidance only—not medical, dermatology, diagnosis, or treatment advice. For health concerns, consult a licensed professional.

Why Lips Need Special Care

The skin on your lips is different from the rest of your face. It's thinner (only 3-5 cell layers compared to about 16 elsewhere), lacks oil glands, and has minimal melanin for sun protection. This makes lips particularly vulnerable to dryness, environmental damage, and aging.

Unlike facial skin, lips can't really moisturize themselves—they depend on the products you apply. The good news: with the right care, maintaining soft, healthy lips is straightforward.

Common Lip Concerns

Dryness and Chapping

The most common lip issue. Causes include:

• Cold, dry weather
• Indoor heating and air conditioning
• Dehydration
• Lip licking (saliva actually dries lips out)
• Certain medications
• Irritating ingredients in lip products

Cracked or Peeling Lips

More severe dryness that may need intensive treatment. Avoid picking at peeling skin—this can lead to more damage and even scarring.

Dark or Pigmented Lips

Can be caused by sun damage, smoking, certain medications, or simply genetics. Sun protection and gentle exfoliation may help over time.

Fine Lines Around Lips

The vertical lines sometimes called "lipstick lines." Sun damage and natural aging are the primary causes. Prevention (sunscreen!) is easier than treatment.

Essential Lip Care Products

Lip Balms

Your everyday essential. Good lip balms contain:

• Occlusives: Petrolatum, beeswax, shea butter, lanolin—these create a barrier to lock in moisture
• Emollients: Oils and butters that soften skin
• Humectants: Hyaluronic acid, glycerin—attract moisture

Simple is often better. Many dermatologists recommend plain petrolatum (like Vaseline) as an effective, non-irritating option.

Lip Treatments and Masks

Intensive products for when regular balm isn't enough:

• Overnight lip masks: Thick, occlusive products you apply before bed
• Healing lip treatments: For cracked or damaged lips
• Lip oils: Lightweight hydration, often with a glossy finish

Lip Scrubs and Exfoliants

Help remove dead skin for smoother lips. Use gently and not too often:

• Sugar scrubs: Dissolve as you use them, gentle enough for lips
• Chemical exfoliants: Gentle acids (less common for lips)
• DIY option: Sugar mixed with honey or oil

Lip Sunscreen

Often overlooked but important. Lips can get sunburned and are susceptible to sun damage. Look for:

• SPF 30 or higher
• Broad-spectrum protection
• Reapply frequently, especially after eating or drinking

Ingredients to Embrace

• Petrolatum/petroleum jelly: Excellent occlusive, very well-tolerated
• Lanolin: Great for healing (avoid if allergic to wool)
• Shea butter: Nourishing and emollient
• Beeswax: Natural occlusive
• Ceramides: Support skin barrier (see our ceramides guide)
• Hyaluronic acid: Hydrating humectant
• Vitamin E: Antioxidant protection
• Castor oil: Emollient often used in lip products

Ingredients to Avoid (If You Have Sensitive or Dry Lips)

• Menthol, camphor, eucalyptus: Can feel soothing but may be irritating and drying with repeated use
• Fragrance: Common irritant (see our fragrance-free guide)
• Phenol: Can cause the cycle of drying and reapplying
• Salicylic acid: Unless specifically for a concern (can be drying)
• Cinnamic acid: Potential allergen

Building a Lip Care Routine

Daily Basics

1. Morning: Apply lip balm with SPF
2. Throughout the day: Reapply as needed (after eating, drinking, or when lips feel dry)
3. Night: Apply a thicker lip treatment or sleeping mask

Weekly Maintenance

1. 1-2x per week: Gentle exfoliation to remove dead skin
2. Follow with: Lip mask or intensive treatment
3. Note: Skip exfoliation if lips are cracked or very irritated

Tips for Healthier Lips

• Stay hydrated: Drink enough water throughout the day
• Don't lick your lips: Saliva dries lips out as it evaporates
• Breathe through your nose: Mouth breathing dries lips
• Use a humidifier: Especially in winter or dry climates
• Protect from sun: Use SPF lip products
• Don't pick at peeling skin: Let it heal naturally or exfoliate gently
• Check your toothpaste: SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) can irritate some people's lips

Special Considerations

Angular Cheilitis

Cracking at the corners of the mouth may not be regular chapping—it can be caused by fungal or bacterial infection, or nutritional deficiencies. If corner cracks persist despite lip care, consult a healthcare provider.

Cold Sores

Caused by the herpes simplex virus, cold sores require different treatment than dry lips. Over-the-counter antivirals can help. Regular lip balms won't treat cold sores.

Chronic Lip Problems

Persistent lip issues that don't respond to basic care may indicate an allergy (check your lip products, toothpaste, foods), underlying health condition, or need for professional evaluation.

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Frequently Asked Questions